Ingredients

1/4 cup safflower oil

1/2 cup popcorn kernels

1 tablespoon flaky sea salt, such as Maldon

3/4 teaspoon freshly ground or cracked black pepper

1 1/4 teaspoons chili powder

1 1/4 teaspoons cumin

1/2 teaspoon coarse salt

1 tablespoon finely grated lime zest, plus juice from 1 large lime wedge

2 tablespoons black sesame seeds, lightly toasted

1 teaspoon coarse salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

2 tablespoons melted unsalted butter

3 tablespoons finely grated Pecorino Romano cheese

3 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary

Coarse salt

1 1/2 teaspoons smoked paprika, also called pimenton

1 1/2 teaspoons granulated brown sugar (or light-brown sugar, sifted)

3/4 teaspoon coarse salt

1 teaspoon garam masala

1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper

2 tablespoons melted unsalted butter

Preparation

Heat oil and a few popcorn kernels in a large, heavy-bottomed pot over high heat. When kernels pop, add remaining kernels and cover. Remove from heat; let stand 30 seconds. Return to heat and cook, shaking pot frequently, until popping stops, 1 to 2 minutes. Toss with desired seasonings (adding more to taste), transfer to a bowl, and serve immediately.

SEA SALT-PEPPER: Stir together salt and pepper.

CHILI-LIME: Combine chili powder, cumin, salt, and lime zest in a large bowl. Add hot popcorn, and squeeze juice from 1 large lime wedge into bowl. Toss until evenly coated.

SESAME-PEPPER: Grind sesame seeds, salt, and pepper in a spice grinder until seeds are coarsely ground. Toss hot popcorn with butter until evenly coated, then toss with sesame mixture.

PECORINO-ROSEMARY: Stir together cheese and rosemary.

SMOKED PAPRIKA: Season with salt to taste, then add paprika.

SPICY-SWEET: Combine sugar, salt, garam masala, and cayenne pepper in a small bowl. Toss hot popcorn with butter until evenly coated, then toss with brown-sugar mixture.