Ingredients

1 pound fresh plain wheat noodles (sometimes labeled “Shanghai noodles”), or an 8-ounce package dry Chinese noodles

10 cups chicken broth, preferably homemade

1 (2-inch piece) fresh ginger, sliced lengthwise into 1/2-inch-thick pieces

1 lemongrass stalk, trimmed, halved crosswise, then lengthwise

4 scallions, thinly sliced on a bias, white and light green parts separated from dark green tops

4 ounces shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and halved (or sliced, if large)

12 ounces Calabaza or other pumpkin squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into 3/4-inch pieces

8 ounces Chinese broccoli or broccolini, cut into bite-size pieces

8 ounces baby bok choy, sliced lengthwise

Soy sauce, Vietnamese or Thai fish sauce, and Chinkiang (Chinese black vinegar), for serving

4 poached or fried eggs, for serving, optional

2 poached chicken breast halves or 4 seared and sliced thin pork chops, for serving, optional

Cilantro, Thai basil, chili oil, and lime wedges, for serving

Preparation

Cook noodles in a large pot of salted boiling water according to package instructions. Drain and divide among 4 bowls.

Meanwhile, in another pot, bring broth to a simmer over medium-high heat. Add ginger, lemongrass, white and light green scallions, shitake mushrooms, and squash. Reduce heat to medium-low to maintain a simmer. Cook until squash is crisp-tender and easily pierced with the tip of a knife, 8 to 10 minutes. Discard ginger and lemongrass. Stir in broccoli and bok choy; continue cooking just until broccoli darkens slightly and is crisp-tender, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat; stir in 3 tablespoons each soy sauce and fish sauce, and 1 tablespoon vinegar.

Divide soup and vegetables evenly among noodle bowls. Top with dark green scallion tops, eggs, and chicken or pork, if using. Serve with herbs and lime.