Ingredients

4 ounces smoky bacon, such as Benton’s (See Note), cut into 1-by- 1/4- inch matchsticks

1 tablespoon chopped rosemary

2 dried red chiles, stemmed and broken

4 small celery ribs, finely chopped

1 large onion, finely chopped

1 fennel bulb, finely chopped

2 quarts fish stock or 1 quart bottled clam broth with 1 quart of water

1 stick unsalted butter

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

1 pound fingerling potatoes, cut into 1/2-inch rounds

1 1/2 cups heavy cream

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

1 pint freshly shucked oysters with their liquor

Tabasco, for serving

Preparation

1.In a large pot, cook the bacon over moderately high heat, stirring, until browned, about 5 minutes. Transfer the bacon to a paper towel-lined plate to drain. Pour out all but 2 tablespoons of the bacon fat in the pot. Add the rosemary and chiles to the pot and cook for 1 minute. Add the celery, onion and fennel and cook over moderately low heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 10 minutes. Add the fish stock and bring to a simmer. 2.In a medium saucepan, melt the butter. Add the flour and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until the roux is the color of peanut butter, about 5 minutes. Scrape the roux into the soup and bring to a boil. Add the potatoes and simmer until tender and the soup has thickened, about 10 minutes. Stir in the cream, season with salt and pepper and return to a simmer. 3.Add the oysters and bacon to the soup and simmer until the oysters are just cooked, about 3 minutes. Spoon the chowder into deep bowls and serve with Tabasco.